Wine Country Cuisine: The Honeysuckle Café – by Sarah Lemon

THE HONEYSUCKLE CAFÉ’S namesake flower evokes the career path of chef-owner Colin Cox, whose culinary expertise has ranged far and wide.

Taking a circuitous route from his native Ashland to California and even Europe, Cox found fertile soil back in the Rogue Valley, entwining his efforts with wife Monique Cordova in the quaint, quiet community of Ruch, where their casual cuisine—brightened with local ingredients—has blossomed.

“One thing people don’t want out here is basic stuff,” says Cox, whose menu mingles Latin, Asian and Mediterranean flavors with all-American classics.

“Higher-end breakfast” with something of a “dinner-style” presentation is the goal at Honeysuckle, since Cox and Cordova put down roots at a shopping center near Ruch Country Store that has seen several cafes come and go. Citing Ashland’s long-running Morning Glory as inspiration, Cox recalls delivering fresh-baked bread from Village Baker, which he co-founded, decades ago to the blue bungalow across Siskiyou Boulevard from Southern Oregon University.

“I’d really never thought of breakfast that way,” says Cox who, as a budding cook, did stints at several of Ashland’s storied eateries, from the erstwhile Ashland Bakery Café and the Plaza fixture Greenleaf to the iconic Omar’s. He and Monique met working together in Jacksonville.

Culinary school propelled Cox to San Francisco’s acclaimed Fleur de Lys and a French bistro in Portsmouth, England. Oregon Electric Station’s heyday in Eugene bolstered Cox’s resume, appealing to owners of Coldwater Creek, which hired him as corporate chef in Idaho. When the women’s clothing retailer fell on hard times in 2015, Cox and Cordova returned to the Rogue Valley, where she spotted a “for sale” sign in a Ruch storefront.

Situated along the Applegate wine trail, The Honeysuckle Café beckons plenty of travelers for a hearty meal during a day of wine tasting. Wines do take a back seat to the café’s cocktail list, admits Cox, but Southern Oregon’s bounty is well-represented.

“The quality is unbelievable,” says Cox.

Produce from Whistling Duck Farm and berries from Pennington Farms, both in the Applegate, frequently are featured. Beef comes from Martha Straube’s Dexter cattle ranch a mere three miles away. And farm-fresh eggs sourced just 5 miles away are a popular breakfast option, for which customers pay an additional $1 per egg.

“The menu’s really changed based on what people want out here,” says Cox, explaining that he tries to balance the clientele’s expectations with a few innovations.

Honeysuckle’s tofu scramble and burger have their following, alongside eggs Benedict aficionados and those who “want to see biscuits and gravy.” The owners’ preference for “big, punchy flavors,” including cilantro and lime, are reflected in such favorites as huevos rancheros, tostada with pork carnitas, Vietnamese bahn mi and an Asian-style noodle bowl. His wife’s palate, says Cox, is more discerning than just about any customer’s, and he develops new recipes with her appreciation in mind.

“If I can make her happy,” he says, “I figure I can hit the mark with everyone else.”

Located at 7390 Highway 238, The Honeysuckle Café is open from 8-3, Wednesday through Sunday. See www.thehoneysucklecafe.com or call 541-702-2525.

 

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