A sense of place. Can you taste it? We are fortunate to live in an area where, not only can you see the beauty and uniqueness that is Southern Oregon, but you can also taste it. It’s in our local wines, reflecting our soils and climate. Likewise, it’s in our local cheeses. If you visit Rogue Creamery’s organic dairy farm in Grants Pass, you can see first-hand where well-cared-for cows graze in fields irrigated by water straight from the Rogue River, absorbing the character of the Rogue Valley into their milk.

If you are looking for guidance on how to marry the best flavors of our region, there is probably no one better to ask than Tom Van Voorhees—“Ringmaster” and manager of Rogue Creamery’s historic Cheese Shop in Central Point.

It was while working at Tuller Premium Food in Brooklyn, New York at the turn of the new millennium that Tom got his first taste of the Rogue Valley. Tom came to the world of cheese in September 2001 when he made the shift from stand-up comedian to a purveyor of fine foods. “After 9/11 in New York, things just weren’t funny.” He was especially drawn to the revolving collection of fine cheeses that rotated through the store. “It was fascinating to learn that every cheese tells a story,” Tom recollects.

Two of those cheeses were from Rogue Creamery in Southern Oregon—Oregon Blue and Oregonzola. Rogue Creamery had just started distributing nationwide after 60 years of being primarily a regional cheese vendor, and these “new” cheeses caught Tom’s attention. “They were both fantastic, so I brought them in.”

He soon met the new owners of Rogue Creamery, including current President David Gremmels, who had recently triumphed with their newest creation: their now-famous Rogue River Blue had earned the title of “World’s Best Blue Cheese,” a high honor among cheesemakers around the globe. A relationship was instantly forged between East Coast Tom and West Coast Rogue Creamery—a relationship that would soon compel Tom to become an Oregonian.

After working in several prestigious cheese shops in the City, Tom and his wife, Stacy, needed a change. Their four-year-old son was approaching school age, and the daily commute was getting to be too much. The careers that drew them to New York City in the first place were no longer part of their game plan. It was around this time that Tom caught wind that Rogue Creamery was looking to hire a new Cheese Shop manager. “We have a car,” he thought, “let’s drive it someplace different.” So drove they did!

Tom has been the manager of Rogue Creamery’s Cheese Shop for eleven years now and has cultivated a deep appreciation of the flavors of our region, developing an intimate knowledge of “place.” He has brought his expansive knowledge, enthusiasm, and sense of humor to Rogue Creamery; his influence can be seen in the selections of interesting “guest” cheeses in the showroom, to the humorous quips that might catch a visitor’s eye—“Fast Food Makes You Slow!”

Tom also fits well with Rogue Creamery’s ethos as an organic, community-supporting “B Corp” company committed to the highest standards of social and environmental responsibility. In the Cheese Shop, he has gotten rid of plastic utensils and straws; has added a variety of local and organic products to his shelves; does not carry any high-fructose corn syrup or “diet” sweeteners; and recycles vigilantly.

Tom carries his humor, commitment to sustainability, and breadth of experience with him. We are fortunate that he fell in love with Southern Oregon and decided to grow roots here.

It is with this deep appreciation for our regional flavors that Tom recommends the following local wine and cheese pairings. The wines mentioned can be found at various locations around the area, including at their home wineries. All the cheeses mentioned are organic Rogue Creamery products that are handmade at their facility in Central Point, and available for sale next door at their Cheese Shop, as well as in many grocery and specialty food stores throughout the state.

Tom Recommends:

EdenVale 2017 Sparkling Rosé with Rogue Creamery La-Di-Da Lavender Cheddar—The EdenVale 2017 Sparkling Rosé is a favorite of mine because it’s playful and complex. I was introduced to sparkling reds in Italy and this reminds me of them. It’s made by Ashley Campanella using five different varietals but predominantly Viognier and Syrah. We’ve always had success pairing Rogue Creamery’s La-Di-Da Lavender Cheddar with Viognier, so this made sense to try, and the combination is fantastic.

Cowhorn Vineyard 2014 Reserve Syrah with Rogue Creamery Rogue River Blue—Our Rogue River Blue is made from cow’s milk produced exclusively at our own dairy, and only in the autumn when the milk is at its very best. These exceptional blue cheese wheels are wrapped in grape leaves soaked in pear brandy, then aged to perfection. Cowhorn Vineyard’s 2014 Reserve Syrah is just the obvious and ultimate regional pairing. The wine is big enough to stand up to this extra-aged blue, and, after all, these are the grape leaves used to wrap each wheel of Rogue River Blue. Barbara and Bill Steele have been very gracious letting us scour their vines for the perfect leaves every summer.

Quady North Cabernet Franc with Rogue Creamery CaCow Belle Spiced Cheddar—I have admired the work of Herb Quady of Barrel 42 and Quady North for many years and his Quady North Cabernet Franc is a longtime favorite of mine. It’s the first Cab Franc I ever had and this pairing with the cocoa and cinnamon of our CaCow Belle Spiced Cheddar is better than dessert.

Coventina Vineyard Tempranillo with Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue—I was drawn to the relatively-new Coventina Vineyard because of owner Chris Amen’s commitment to organic agriculture. As producers of certified organic cheese, we always look to support other organic producers, and it’s rare in the wine world. Our classic, signature Oregon Blue cheese goes well with Tempranillo, so I gave theirs a try, and it turns out Herb and his team at Barrel 42 made it. No wonder!

©Southern Oregon Wine Scene – from the Fall Winter 2019 issue