Vintner Profile: Brian Jordaan, Eliana Wines – by Peggy Dover

Following some twists and turns, I’d arrived at Thistlecroft Vineyard, home of Eliana Wines, a boutique winery a few minutes from Ashland and a world apart from the everyday hustle. I’d meandered my way to an enchanted hilltop. As clouds floated through a blue-sky day, I wondered at the story bits I’d heard about the family connected to this place. Something wild about fleeing a country. As I waited for winemaker Brian Jordaan (your-DON) to join me, I stared at the gnarled vineyard trunks with branches spread wide and tied securely in place. Barren so far, they reminded me of rows of crucifixes.

I’d taken Brian from his vines, where he tutored a fresh crop, tending each vine personally. He took a break and poured two glasses of a dry and aromatic Cabernet Sauvignon, breaking my rule of waiting until post-interview. But the atmosphere was relaxed and I could well relate with his observation. “It’s been an amazing journey. There have been some hiccups along the road, but really, life has been good. I’m grateful for everything,”

A more ideal spot could hardly be imagined. And the hiccups, what were they?

Brian, (Zimbabwean) with his wife Carien (South African) and their four children were born there. Brian and Carien were Rhodesians before the country’s renaming in 1979. The family moved to Medford in spring of 2004. “We’ve been here fourteen years and seven days,” Brian said. Something in his eyes made me think he had the hours and minutes down as well.

His family had owned a large, successful farm in Zimbabwe. The same finesse he employs with his grape varietals is born of experience from watchful handling of a commercial rose crop grown for the European market.

The Jordaans relocated to the Rogue Valley when the Zimbabwean government, under the authoritarian rule of Robert Mugabe, instituted a land redistribution program, a pleasanter way of saying land confiscation. Under the brutal regime, landowners were beaten—and worse. It was a time of upheaval referred to as the “reeducation program,” leaving no doubt who reigned. Mugabe arbitrarily decided the expansive Jordaan farm would be cut into pieces and parceled out to government farm laborers. For a time, they allowed the Jordaan family to retain five acres on which they tended 140,000 rose bushes in greenhouses, along with some peas and potatoes. They grew enough to live on, and their farm flourished, but their success cost them. Surrounding government-owned farms didn’t fare so well, making it look bad for those in power.

As tensions escalated, the Jordaans received death threats. They would occasionally leave their home for a couple of days until the danger ebbed. In April of 2004, mandatory change forced Brian and Carien to reevaluate what ultimately mattered. They arrived home to find a government worker harvesting their crops. Government workers beat one of Brian’s men to a pulp. “They told us, ‘If you think this is bad, just wait.’” The Jordaans had to leave.

The family, including four children, ages 2-7, began loading their household goods but were told, “You don’t understand. We own everything you have.” Brian moved their firearms into the house, and the children were told to wait in the bathroom. At that point, they didn’t know if they would make it out alive. They fit what little they could into a couple of suitcases and fled for their lives. Later they learned an ambush had awaited them at a cattle guard, but nothing happened. Brian looked at me and said, “I consider it a miracle we made it out.”

Eliana is from the Hebrew for “my God has heard” or, “my God has answered.” “It’s the same thing, isn’t it?” Brian offered.

A few years following their relocation to Southern Oregon, they leased Thistlecroft vineyard from Laurel Banke to launch the Eliana brand. Carien is an occupational therapist, and they have a home in Medford. “We love it here,” he said.

Brian and Carien loved the bush country and growing things. Using sustainable practices was an integral part of who they were in their home country, and luckily for us, that practice now benefits all of us in the Southern Oregon wine industry.

Welcome home, Jordaan family.

Photo ©Steven Addington Photography of The Jordaan Family: Carien and Brian in front, Kaylyn 21, Johan 18, Bryonie 16, and Jana 22.

©Southern Oregon Wine Scene – from the Spring 2019 issue

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